Tuesday, December 31, 2013
Friday, May 2, 2008
Boat Engines - Dangers and Precautions Necessary
Running on gas with over 10 % alcohol in a marine engine will cause performance problems, and can also cause permanent damage to your marine motor. Understanding the dangers and effects of alcohol gas, in addition to following all the necessary marine fuel system precautions, is now necessary to avoid any problems with E10 gasoline.
There has been much controversy, misinformation and confusion since the recent (2006) increased distribution of ethanol gasoline in the United States.
Marine manufacturer fuel recommendations (eg. owners manuals), which in the past, often warned against using alcohol fuels, now document that up to 10 % ethanol in gas is acceptable. As more people are using E10, the necessary precautions and dangers are becoming more apparent and better documented.
Boaters looking for instant answers and solutions will not find them- But, increased knowledge and following all the necessary precautions can spare you from most of the inconvenience and problems with alcohol gas.
All reputable authorities agree, that running on ethanol alcohol above 10 % will cause motor damage and/or performance issues with gas-powered engines, and it is always unsafe to run on contaminated fuel.
Prevention is your best weapon against ethanol gas.
Ethanol Fuel Background:
E10, Is a gasoline blended with up to 10 % ethanol alcohol and is now in widespread use in the U.S. Ethanol, ethyl alcohol, is made from corn, sugar and other grains.
Alcohol is an excellent cleaner, solvent, anti-freeze and most important, ethanol is hygroscopic, meaning it will absorb large amounts of water.
Government regulations and laws for ethanol fuel use and labeling differ from state-to-state, and are constantly changing. The most serious boat engine problems, resulting from ethanol E10 use, have mainly occurred due to illegal amounts of ethanol (over 10 %) being incorrectly added at the gas station pumps, by the delivery truck drivers..
Since using over 10 % alcohol gas is dangerous, it will invalidate all marine company engine warranties. Many ethanol problems, reported by boaters appears to be due to their lack of knowledge/information on how to properly manage alcohol fuels.
Many boat engine breakdowns in recent months are directly related to the mismanagement of E10 gas.
Several older engines can not use any fuels that contains alcohol. Eg. Certain fiberglass tanks, mostly manufactured prior to 1992, will decompose from alcohol. Fortunately newer outboard engines (past 5 years) have been designed to be more compatible with alcohol fuels.
Reasons Boat Engines Have More Problems with Ethanol Gas:
Boaters, often store gas in tanks longer than recommended for E10 (90 days).
Cars, unlike boats, usually replace fuel every week or two, which will successfully prevent the possibility of water-contamination/phase separation.
Boat engines live in a water environment - Alcohol gas loves to absorb water.
Ethanol E10 gas can absorb large amounts of water into the fuel tank, MTBE in conventional gasoline did not.
Plus, boat engines usually last longer than cars. Still owning and using a marine engine from the 1970's or 1980's is not uncommon. * These older engine parts and tanks were not usually designed or tested to withstand the damaging effects of alcohol gas.
* Several older marine engines (made prior to 1992) have plastic and rubber parts, and fiberglass tanks that are NOT compatible with E10 alcohol fuel.
Ethanol's adverse effects to boat motors involves all types of performance issues and disintegration and deterioration, drying and clogging of engine parts.
Signs and symptoms of ethanol problems and damage include:
Stalling, prematurely worn engine parts, rusting, clogging of fuel filters and carburetor jets, release of gunk and sludge throughout the engine, frequent water-contamination/phase separation of fuel, and eventually engine breakdowns and death.
Ethanol can cause a motor to run lean on fuel, due to water will not burn, which will take the place of fuel.
Vapor lock (fuel starvation) is common when using ethanol fuels.
Alcohol fuels are very prone to phase separation, when the weight of the ethanol and water will sink to the bottom of the fuel tank and get picked up by the motors fuel system. (Even small amounts of water can harm the fuel system).
The initial symptoms, (of using a higher than acceptable concentration of alcohol in fuel, is usually engine stalling when you demand acceleration (WOT).
You'll notice other performance issues, such as increased stalling, misfire, hesitation and difficulty maintaining boat speed during trolling.
The long term dangers of ethanol (and other alcohol-blended fuels) are many, including deterioration of parts (rubber, aluminum, fiberglass etc.), rusting, fuel system clogging, and other varied damage to engine parts and components. Older engines are more prone to ethanol alcohol damage.
The most reported and troublesome issue with marine engines and ethanol fuel has been regarding the decomposition of certain fiberglass gas tanks. There really is no solution to this issue, other than to replace the tank (very costly, time-consuming project); Lining or sealing the tank, for added protection, is sometimes possible.
1. It is dangerous to use greater than 10 % ethanol in marine engines.
Some gas supplies are illegally much higher. Check gas with an alcohol fuel test kit to make sure ethanol present is less than 10%.
A recent post on a Long Island, NY message board states,
"Believe it or not, some of the fuel samples tested 48 % ethanol and most were above the 10 % 'maximum allowable by law'.".
All marine engines sold in the United States are designed to operate on fuel containing no more than 10 percent ethanol. Engines built before ethanol became popular for environmental reasons, (past 10 years) have minimal safeguards from the damage alcohol fuels will cause.
2. Ethanol absorbs water - Water molecules combine with petroleum (gas) in your gas fuel tank and lines...
Ethanol has an increased risk of fuel water-contamination due to ability to absorb H20.
(Ethanol attracts and absorbs moisture from the air). Vapor lock and fuel starvation can occur.
The gasoline you pump in your tank may be dry, but due to condensation (from humidity, temperature, etc.) water does exist in your tank. Since water is insoluble in gasoline, it sinks to the bottom of your tank -
As long as it remains below the level of your fuel pickup tube it will not affect your engine. The problem is water is soluble in ethanol and will travel thru your engine fuel system.
A water/ethanol mixture, being heavier than gas, will sink to the bottom of the gas tank, leaving a lower octane gas on top. This low octane gas (lean fuel) can cause performance issues with 4-stroke engines, and can cause damage to 2-stroke engines.
Excess water in engines will also cause premature rusting.
3. Ethanol is an amazing solvent and cleansing agent.
High levels of ethanol can dissolve, deteriorate and breakdown solid material, including rubber, plastic, fiberglass and even aluminum and steel.
Ethanol will also cleanse and release corrosive matter (gunk), varnish and rust, which will travel through the engine and clog fuel filters, carburetor jets and injectors. In many outboard engines it will also contaminate the fuel present in your fuel tank.
Ethanol tends to dissolve certain resins, which can travel through the engine intake and coat intake valves, causing sticking and bent pushrods or worse. This has been well documented for boats equipped with certain fiberglass gas tanks, made before the early 1990's.
The more gunk (rust, sediment, dirt, etc.) collected in your outboard engine over the years, the more noticeable the cleansing effects of alcohol will be noticed.
Ethanol's solvent and cleansing abilities can lead to engine failure and expensive (avoidable) repairs.
4. Ethanol can wear-down and dry-out the plastic and rubber parts in your engine.
Rubber seals and plastic material used in older boats are often not compatible with alcohol. Ethanol will make engine parts dry and brittle. Since ethanol is a cleansing and drying solution, it will clean the oil right off the internal components of a 2 stroke, Extra lubrication is necessary.
5. Ethanol blends can cause additional contamination by reacting chemically with MTBE fuel blends.
Do not mix gas that contains MTBE with ethanol E10.
Mixing MTBE fuel with ethanol blend fuel can create a gel-like substance that clogs passages in carburetors.
Stalled engines and engine damage are the result. Fuel injected engines have shown less damage, than carbureted engines, from this gel-like substance.
6. Engines with older fiberglass gas tanks have the greatest risks when using fuel with ethanol.
Fiberglass gas tanks can "deteriorate" from ethanol, causing this degraded resin stuff, (you'll see "black sludge") to circulate through your engine, coating intake manifolds and building up on intake valves - which basically destroys your engine.
What you can do
1. If possible, try to avoid using ethanol fuel blends in your outboard and marine engines.
If you are unable to obtain alcohol-free fuel in your area, you SHOULD TEST THE FUEL YOU BUY to assure the ethanol content is at or below 10 %.
2. Follow engine manufacturer gas recommendations. Check with your marine motor manufacturer and/or check your owners manual.
.
3. Always use fresh, high-quality gasoline and replace it every 2-4 weeks.
Always avoid storing gas in tank for greater than 90 days. Remember that gas with ethanol has a shorter shelf life - use it up and replace it quickly.
Buy gas from busy gas stations - Fuel turnover is faster, gas will be fresher.
4. Check your gas tank for the presence of water and remove all water before adding an ethanol blend.
5. Avoid running on bottom of gas tank (where most water will sink).
6. Do not mix MTBE and ethanol-blended fuels.
Run out or remove your old (MTBE) fuel before putting the new ethanol fuel in your tank.
7. Make sure your motor is equipped with a water separating fuel filter.
Evinrude E-Tec's, and other newer engine models have them, other engines may or may not. The installation of a water separator in the fuel line will help with small amounts of water. Some marine engines are also equipped with water sensors.
8. Check fuel system for contaminants and clogging and replace your fuel filter often.
Fuel filters should be replaced at least every 50 -100 hours.
9. Evinrude - Johnson 2 + 4 fuel conditioner will stabilize fuel, inhibit corrosion and absorb moisture (water) without adding alcohol to the fuel. Add fuel conditioner at every gas fill-up.
10 . Evinrude (OMC BRP) also recommends carbon guard be added to the fuel tank each time you add gasoline, (Reduces possibility of rusting, piston ring sticking and carbon build-up, better overall engine performance, increases engine life), but it will not remove water.
11. Keep your engine well-tuned and lubricated.
12. If your engine has an older fiberglass gas tank, replace it. (Check with manufacturer if your tank was designed to tolerate alcohol fuels). Newer fiberglass tanks are double-lined and made of special material that holds up to ethanol.
There has been much controversy, misinformation and confusion since the recent (2006) increased distribution of ethanol gasoline in the United States.
Marine manufacturer fuel recommendations (eg. owners manuals), which in the past, often warned against using alcohol fuels, now document that up to 10 % ethanol in gas is acceptable. As more people are using E10, the necessary precautions and dangers are becoming more apparent and better documented.
Boaters looking for instant answers and solutions will not find them- But, increased knowledge and following all the necessary precautions can spare you from most of the inconvenience and problems with alcohol gas.
All reputable authorities agree, that running on ethanol alcohol above 10 % will cause motor damage and/or performance issues with gas-powered engines, and it is always unsafe to run on contaminated fuel.
Prevention is your best weapon against ethanol gas.
Ethanol Fuel Background:
E10, Is a gasoline blended with up to 10 % ethanol alcohol and is now in widespread use in the U.S. Ethanol, ethyl alcohol, is made from corn, sugar and other grains.
Alcohol is an excellent cleaner, solvent, anti-freeze and most important, ethanol is hygroscopic, meaning it will absorb large amounts of water.
Government regulations and laws for ethanol fuel use and labeling differ from state-to-state, and are constantly changing. The most serious boat engine problems, resulting from ethanol E10 use, have mainly occurred due to illegal amounts of ethanol (over 10 %) being incorrectly added at the gas station pumps, by the delivery truck drivers..
Since using over 10 % alcohol gas is dangerous, it will invalidate all marine company engine warranties. Many ethanol problems, reported by boaters appears to be due to their lack of knowledge/information on how to properly manage alcohol fuels.
Many boat engine breakdowns in recent months are directly related to the mismanagement of E10 gas.
Several older engines can not use any fuels that contains alcohol. Eg. Certain fiberglass tanks, mostly manufactured prior to 1992, will decompose from alcohol. Fortunately newer outboard engines (past 5 years) have been designed to be more compatible with alcohol fuels.
Reasons Boat Engines Have More Problems with Ethanol Gas:
Boaters, often store gas in tanks longer than recommended for E10 (90 days).
Cars, unlike boats, usually replace fuel every week or two, which will successfully prevent the possibility of water-contamination/phase separation.
Boat engines live in a water environment - Alcohol gas loves to absorb water.
Ethanol E10 gas can absorb large amounts of water into the fuel tank, MTBE in conventional gasoline did not.
Plus, boat engines usually last longer than cars. Still owning and using a marine engine from the 1970's or 1980's is not uncommon. * These older engine parts and tanks were not usually designed or tested to withstand the damaging effects of alcohol gas.
* Several older marine engines (made prior to 1992) have plastic and rubber parts, and fiberglass tanks that are NOT compatible with E10 alcohol fuel.
Ethanol's adverse effects to boat motors involves all types of performance issues and disintegration and deterioration, drying and clogging of engine parts.
Signs and symptoms of ethanol problems and damage include:
Stalling, prematurely worn engine parts, rusting, clogging of fuel filters and carburetor jets, release of gunk and sludge throughout the engine, frequent water-contamination/phase separation of fuel, and eventually engine breakdowns and death.
Ethanol can cause a motor to run lean on fuel, due to water will not burn, which will take the place of fuel.
Vapor lock (fuel starvation) is common when using ethanol fuels.
Alcohol fuels are very prone to phase separation, when the weight of the ethanol and water will sink to the bottom of the fuel tank and get picked up by the motors fuel system. (Even small amounts of water can harm the fuel system).
The initial symptoms, (of using a higher than acceptable concentration of alcohol in fuel, is usually engine stalling when you demand acceleration (WOT).
You'll notice other performance issues, such as increased stalling, misfire, hesitation and difficulty maintaining boat speed during trolling.
The long term dangers of ethanol (and other alcohol-blended fuels) are many, including deterioration of parts (rubber, aluminum, fiberglass etc.), rusting, fuel system clogging, and other varied damage to engine parts and components. Older engines are more prone to ethanol alcohol damage.
The most reported and troublesome issue with marine engines and ethanol fuel has been regarding the decomposition of certain fiberglass gas tanks. There really is no solution to this issue, other than to replace the tank (very costly, time-consuming project); Lining or sealing the tank, for added protection, is sometimes possible.
1. It is dangerous to use greater than 10 % ethanol in marine engines.
Some gas supplies are illegally much higher. Check gas with an alcohol fuel test kit to make sure ethanol present is less than 10%.
A recent post on a Long Island, NY message board states,
"Believe it or not, some of the fuel samples tested 48 % ethanol and most were above the 10 % 'maximum allowable by law'.".
All marine engines sold in the United States are designed to operate on fuel containing no more than 10 percent ethanol. Engines built before ethanol became popular for environmental reasons, (past 10 years) have minimal safeguards from the damage alcohol fuels will cause.
2. Ethanol absorbs water - Water molecules combine with petroleum (gas) in your gas fuel tank and lines...
Ethanol has an increased risk of fuel water-contamination due to ability to absorb H20.
(Ethanol attracts and absorbs moisture from the air). Vapor lock and fuel starvation can occur.
The gasoline you pump in your tank may be dry, but due to condensation (from humidity, temperature, etc.) water does exist in your tank. Since water is insoluble in gasoline, it sinks to the bottom of your tank -
As long as it remains below the level of your fuel pickup tube it will not affect your engine. The problem is water is soluble in ethanol and will travel thru your engine fuel system.
A water/ethanol mixture, being heavier than gas, will sink to the bottom of the gas tank, leaving a lower octane gas on top. This low octane gas (lean fuel) can cause performance issues with 4-stroke engines, and can cause damage to 2-stroke engines.
Excess water in engines will also cause premature rusting.
3. Ethanol is an amazing solvent and cleansing agent.
High levels of ethanol can dissolve, deteriorate and breakdown solid material, including rubber, plastic, fiberglass and even aluminum and steel.
Ethanol will also cleanse and release corrosive matter (gunk), varnish and rust, which will travel through the engine and clog fuel filters, carburetor jets and injectors. In many outboard engines it will also contaminate the fuel present in your fuel tank.
Ethanol tends to dissolve certain resins, which can travel through the engine intake and coat intake valves, causing sticking and bent pushrods or worse. This has been well documented for boats equipped with certain fiberglass gas tanks, made before the early 1990's.
The more gunk (rust, sediment, dirt, etc.) collected in your outboard engine over the years, the more noticeable the cleansing effects of alcohol will be noticed.
Ethanol's solvent and cleansing abilities can lead to engine failure and expensive (avoidable) repairs.
4. Ethanol can wear-down and dry-out the plastic and rubber parts in your engine.
Rubber seals and plastic material used in older boats are often not compatible with alcohol. Ethanol will make engine parts dry and brittle. Since ethanol is a cleansing and drying solution, it will clean the oil right off the internal components of a 2 stroke, Extra lubrication is necessary.
5. Ethanol blends can cause additional contamination by reacting chemically with MTBE fuel blends.
Do not mix gas that contains MTBE with ethanol E10.
Mixing MTBE fuel with ethanol blend fuel can create a gel-like substance that clogs passages in carburetors.
Stalled engines and engine damage are the result. Fuel injected engines have shown less damage, than carbureted engines, from this gel-like substance.
6. Engines with older fiberglass gas tanks have the greatest risks when using fuel with ethanol.
Fiberglass gas tanks can "deteriorate" from ethanol, causing this degraded resin stuff, (you'll see "black sludge") to circulate through your engine, coating intake manifolds and building up on intake valves - which basically destroys your engine.
What you can do
1. If possible, try to avoid using ethanol fuel blends in your outboard and marine engines.
If you are unable to obtain alcohol-free fuel in your area, you SHOULD TEST THE FUEL YOU BUY to assure the ethanol content is at or below 10 %.
2. Follow engine manufacturer gas recommendations. Check with your marine motor manufacturer and/or check your owners manual.
.
3. Always use fresh, high-quality gasoline and replace it every 2-4 weeks.
Always avoid storing gas in tank for greater than 90 days. Remember that gas with ethanol has a shorter shelf life - use it up and replace it quickly.
Buy gas from busy gas stations - Fuel turnover is faster, gas will be fresher.
4. Check your gas tank for the presence of water and remove all water before adding an ethanol blend.
5. Avoid running on bottom of gas tank (where most water will sink).
6. Do not mix MTBE and ethanol-blended fuels.
Run out or remove your old (MTBE) fuel before putting the new ethanol fuel in your tank.
7. Make sure your motor is equipped with a water separating fuel filter.
Evinrude E-Tec's, and other newer engine models have them, other engines may or may not. The installation of a water separator in the fuel line will help with small amounts of water. Some marine engines are also equipped with water sensors.
8. Check fuel system for contaminants and clogging and replace your fuel filter often.
Fuel filters should be replaced at least every 50 -100 hours.
9. Evinrude - Johnson 2 + 4 fuel conditioner will stabilize fuel, inhibit corrosion and absorb moisture (water) without adding alcohol to the fuel. Add fuel conditioner at every gas fill-up.
10 . Evinrude (OMC BRP) also recommends carbon guard be added to the fuel tank each time you add gasoline, (Reduces possibility of rusting, piston ring sticking and carbon build-up, better overall engine performance, increases engine life), but it will not remove water.
11. Keep your engine well-tuned and lubricated.
12. If your engine has an older fiberglass gas tank, replace it. (Check with manufacturer if your tank was designed to tolerate alcohol fuels). Newer fiberglass tanks are double-lined and made of special material that holds up to ethanol.
Monday, April 14, 2008
Optima Battery
See specs below image.
This top-view drawing illustrates post placement on the Optima Model D34M.
Note orientation of both positive and negative SAE posts and 5/16" threaded studs.Model D34M top dimensions are 6.8"W x 10"L. Height is 7.8" including posts.
Case height w/o posts is 6.7".
Base measures 6.8"W x 10"L.
Battery has removable comfort-grip carry strap.
Note: If you need GM-style side connectors, see model D34/78.
Note: Model 34M battery post placement is identical to D34M, but Model 34M is not a deep cycle battery
Selecting a Battery for your Boat
Units such as CA (cranking amps), CCA (cold cranking amps), and MCA (marine cranking amps) are the number of amps a battery can supply for 30 seconds at a specific temperature.
CA - 0° C
CCA - 0° F
MCA - 32° F also called CA (cranking amps)
CCA - 80° F is often referred to as HCA (hot cranking amps)
Why is there a marine cranking amp? Well, how often is a boat used below 32 degrees? Hence, MCA more closely represents the batteries performance in the real world. Since the majority of automotive customers are mounting the battery in the engine bay of the vehicle, a temperature of 80 degrees most closely represents the mean of temperatures when the battery will be used.
Rating Definitions and Conversion Formula
CCA - Cold Cranking Amp
[SAE] Max current the battery can deliver for 30 sec. at 0F (-18C) while V >= 7.2V
[EN] Max current the battery can deliver for 10 sec. at 0F (-18C) while V >= 7.5V
[DIN] Max current the battery can deliver for 30 sec. at 0F (-18C) while V >= 9V
[IEC] Max current the battery can deliver for 60 sec. at 0F (-18C) while V >= 8.4V
CA - Cranking Amp
Max current the battery can deliver for 30 seconds at 32F (0C) while V >=7.2
MCA - Marine Cranking Amp (equal to CA)
To convert MCA or CA to CCA multiply CA by 80%
HCA - Hot Cranking Amp
Max current the battery can deliver for 30 seconds at 80F (26.7C)) V >=7.2
To convert HCA to CCA, multiply HCA by 69%
You cant directly convert between CA, CCA, and MCA, because its at a different temperature.
So to avoid confusion always included the temperature it was measured at.
_________________________
Two standard ratings are used to measure a battery's storage capacity.
Amp Hours
The Amp Hour rating tells you how much amperage is available when discharged evenly over a 20 hour period. The amp hour rating is cumulative, so in order to know how many constant amps the battery will output for 20 hours, you have to divide the amp hour rating by 20.
Example: If a battery has an amp hour rating of 75, dividing by 20 = 3.75. Such a battery can carry a 3.75 amp load for 20 hours before dropping to 10.5 volts. (10.5 volts is the fully discharged level, at which point the battery needs to be recharged.)
A battery with an amp hour rating of 55 will carry a 2.75 amp load for 20 hours before dropping to 10.5 volts.
Reserve Minutes
Reserve minutes is the number of minutes a battery will carry a 25 amp load before dropping to 10.5 volts. (10.5 volts is the fully discharged level, at which point the battery needs to be recharged.)
Reserve Capacity (RC)
The Reserve Capacity rating is the second most important consideration while buying a battery. This is because of the effects of an increased parasitic (key off) load and in emergencies. Reserve Capacity is the number of minutes a fully charged battery at 80 degrees F (26.7 degrees C) can be discharged at 25 amps until the voltage falls below 10.5 volts. More RC is better in every case! In a hot climate, for example, if your car has a 360 OEM cranking amp requirement, then a 400 CCA rated battery with 120 minute RC with more electrolyte would be more desirable than one with 1000 CCA with 90 minutes of RC. If more RC is required, two six-volt batteries can be connected in series or two (or more) 12 volt batteries can be connected in parallel. Within a BCI group size, generally the battery with larger RC will weigh more because it contains more lead.
________________________________________
Size
Batteries are generally sold by model, so the group numbers will vary for the same price. This means that for the SAME price you can potentially buy a physically larger battery with more RC than the battery you are replacing, e.g. a 34/78 group might replace a smaller 26/70 group and give you an additional 30 minutes of RC.
Freshness
Determining the "freshness" of a battery is sometimes difficult. A battery that is more than six months old should never be bought because it begins to sulfate. Sulfation occurs when lead sulfate can not be converted back to charged material and is created when discharged batteries stand for a long time or from excessive water loss.
CA - 0° C
CCA - 0° F
MCA - 32° F also called CA (cranking amps)
CCA - 80° F is often referred to as HCA (hot cranking amps)
Why is there a marine cranking amp? Well, how often is a boat used below 32 degrees? Hence, MCA more closely represents the batteries performance in the real world. Since the majority of automotive customers are mounting the battery in the engine bay of the vehicle, a temperature of 80 degrees most closely represents the mean of temperatures when the battery will be used.
Rating Definitions and Conversion Formula
CCA - Cold Cranking Amp
[SAE] Max current the battery can deliver for 30 sec. at 0F (-18C) while V >= 7.2V
[EN] Max current the battery can deliver for 10 sec. at 0F (-18C) while V >= 7.5V
[DIN] Max current the battery can deliver for 30 sec. at 0F (-18C) while V >= 9V
[IEC] Max current the battery can deliver for 60 sec. at 0F (-18C) while V >= 8.4V
CA - Cranking Amp
Max current the battery can deliver for 30 seconds at 32F (0C) while V >=7.2
MCA - Marine Cranking Amp (equal to CA)
To convert MCA or CA to CCA multiply CA by 80%
HCA - Hot Cranking Amp
Max current the battery can deliver for 30 seconds at 80F (26.7C)) V >=7.2
To convert HCA to CCA, multiply HCA by 69%
You cant directly convert between CA, CCA, and MCA, because its at a different temperature.
So to avoid confusion always included the temperature it was measured at.
_________________________
Two standard ratings are used to measure a battery's storage capacity.
Amp Hours
The Amp Hour rating tells you how much amperage is available when discharged evenly over a 20 hour period. The amp hour rating is cumulative, so in order to know how many constant amps the battery will output for 20 hours, you have to divide the amp hour rating by 20.
Example: If a battery has an amp hour rating of 75, dividing by 20 = 3.75. Such a battery can carry a 3.75 amp load for 20 hours before dropping to 10.5 volts. (10.5 volts is the fully discharged level, at which point the battery needs to be recharged.)
A battery with an amp hour rating of 55 will carry a 2.75 amp load for 20 hours before dropping to 10.5 volts.
Reserve Minutes
Reserve minutes is the number of minutes a battery will carry a 25 amp load before dropping to 10.5 volts. (10.5 volts is the fully discharged level, at which point the battery needs to be recharged.)
Reserve Capacity (RC)
The Reserve Capacity rating is the second most important consideration while buying a battery. This is because of the effects of an increased parasitic (key off) load and in emergencies. Reserve Capacity is the number of minutes a fully charged battery at 80 degrees F (26.7 degrees C) can be discharged at 25 amps until the voltage falls below 10.5 volts. More RC is better in every case! In a hot climate, for example, if your car has a 360 OEM cranking amp requirement, then a 400 CCA rated battery with 120 minute RC with more electrolyte would be more desirable than one with 1000 CCA with 90 minutes of RC. If more RC is required, two six-volt batteries can be connected in series or two (or more) 12 volt batteries can be connected in parallel. Within a BCI group size, generally the battery with larger RC will weigh more because it contains more lead.
________________________________________
Size
Batteries are generally sold by model, so the group numbers will vary for the same price. This means that for the SAME price you can potentially buy a physically larger battery with more RC than the battery you are replacing, e.g. a 34/78 group might replace a smaller 26/70 group and give you an additional 30 minutes of RC.
Freshness
Determining the "freshness" of a battery is sometimes difficult. A battery that is more than six months old should never be bought because it begins to sulfate. Sulfation occurs when lead sulfate can not be converted back to charged material and is created when discharged batteries stand for a long time or from excessive water loss.
Thursday, April 10, 2008
Rotax 1503 engine
The Rotax 1503 engine is an engineering masterpiece, the only 4 stroke engine specifically designed for watercraft use, the only watercraft engine with a closed loop cooling system. It is now available in several variations from the new 135hp found in the 2006 GTI range right up to the wopping 215hp supercharged intercooled monster available in various Sea doo jet boats.
It has 1503cc 3 cylinder’s single overhead cam pushing 12 valves. The engine is a dry sump variety running with twin oil pumps and a tip over protection system to stop the oil from flowing to unwanted areas in the case of the watercraft being inverted.Valve timing is designed in such a way that every time you turn off your 4 tec equipped Sea doo the engine will stop with all 12 valves firmly closed to make water ingression almost impossible.
1503 Rotax 4-Tec Trouble Codes
P0106
Manifold atmospheric presure sensor out of range
P0107
Manifold atmospheric presure sensor or Manifold barometric presure sensor shorted to ground
P0108
Manifold atmospheric presure sensor or Manifold barometric presure sensor shorted to 12V or open circuit
P0111
Intake manifold temp sensor faulty
P0112
Intake manifold shorted to ground
P0113
Intake manifold shorted to 12V or open circuit
P0116
Engine temp sensor faulty
P0117
Engine temp sensor shorted to ground
P0118
Engine temp sensor shorted to 12V or open circuit
P0122
TPS out of range - short to ground
P0123
TPS out of range - short to 12V or open circuit
P01231
Fuel pump shorted to ground or open circuit
P0232
Fuel pump shorted to 12V
P0261
#1 injector short to ground or open circuit
P0262
#1 injector shorted to 12V
P0264
#2 injector short to ground or open circuit
P0265
#2 injector shorted to 12V
P0267
#3 injector short to ground or open circuit
P0268
#3 injector shorted to 12V
P0236
Knock sensor out of range
P0336
Crank position sensor - wrong RPM detected
P0337
No CPS signal, but CAPS signal detected
P0339
Crank signal fault not plausible with cam signal
P0344
Cam phase sensor signal missing
P0351
Ignition coil #1 open circuit or shorted to ground or to 12V
P0352
Ignition coil #2 open circuit or shorted to ground or to 12V
P0353
Ignition coil #3 open circuit or shorted to ground or to 12V
P0461
Fuel level sensor circuit out of range
P0462
Fuel level sensor shorted to ground
P0463
Fuel level sensor circuit shorted to 12V or open circuit
P0505
DLA output stage cutoff memory cuircut or output stage fault or open circuit or short to 12V
P0513
Incorrect DESS key
P0520
Oil pressure switch faulty
P0544
Exhaust gas temperature sensor fautly
P0545
Exhaust gas temperature switch shorted to ground
P0546
Exhaust gas temperature switch shorted to 12V or open circuit
P0562
Battery voltage too low
P0536
Battery voltage too high
P0600
CAN communication problem detected by EMS or MPEM
P0601
TPS learns unlikely or checksum fault
P0602
ECU not coded
P0604
RAM faulty
P0605
EEPROM faulty
P0605
Checksum fault EEPROM
P0608
Sensor 5V power supply short to ground
P0608
Sensor 5V power supply short to 12V
P0616
Starter relay short to ground or open circuit
P0617
Starter relay short to 12V
P1102
TPS adaption failure
P1104
TPS adaption cancelled
P1148
Fuel injector 1,2 or 3 - safety fuel cutoff disabled
P1200
Blow-by valve shorted to ground or open circuit
P1201
Blow-by valve shorted to 12V
P1202
Oil tank pressure switch implausible or blow-by valve still closed
P1517
Compass out of range
P1590
VTS position sensor out of range
P1591
VTS position sensor - low voltage
P1592
VTS position sensor - high voltage
P1593
VTS malfunction
P1607
MPEM fault
P1675
Spare output 1 shorted to ground or open circuit
P1676
Spare output 1 shorted to 12V
P1678
Spare output 2 shorted to ground or open circuit
P1679
Spare output 2 shorted to 12V
P1680
Comminication problem detected by MPEM
P1681
Communication problem - instrument cluster message missing
P1682
Communication problem - EMS message missing
P1683
COM RAM fault
P1690
VTS control up circuit open circuit or shorted to ground
P1691
VTS control up circuit shorted to battery
P1692
VTS control down circuit open circuit or shorted to ground
P1693
VTS control down circuit shorted to battery
P0344, P1200
Burnt TOPS 10A fuse
P1675
Burnt depth gauge or spare 2A fuse
P0353, P0267
Burnt cylinder #3 ignition coil and injection 10A fuse
P0352, P0264
Burnt cylinder #2 ignition coil and injection 10A fuse
P0351, P0261
Burnt cylinder #1 ignition coil and injection 10A fuse
P1680, P1681
Burnt information center 1A fuse
P0616
Burnt Bilge pump, beeper, diagnostic center 3A fuse
P1678
Burnt spare 5A fuse
P0231
Burnt starter, fuel pump 10A fuse
P0600
Burnt MPEM 2A fuse
P1690, P1692
Burnt VTS 7.5A fuse
Manifold atmospheric presure sensor out of range
P0107
Manifold atmospheric presure sensor or Manifold barometric presure sensor shorted to ground
P0108
Manifold atmospheric presure sensor or Manifold barometric presure sensor shorted to 12V or open circuit
P0111
Intake manifold temp sensor faulty
P0112
Intake manifold shorted to ground
P0113
Intake manifold shorted to 12V or open circuit
P0116
Engine temp sensor faulty
P0117
Engine temp sensor shorted to ground
P0118
Engine temp sensor shorted to 12V or open circuit
P0122
TPS out of range - short to ground
P0123
TPS out of range - short to 12V or open circuit
P01231
Fuel pump shorted to ground or open circuit
P0232
Fuel pump shorted to 12V
P0261
#1 injector short to ground or open circuit
P0262
#1 injector shorted to 12V
P0264
#2 injector short to ground or open circuit
P0265
#2 injector shorted to 12V
P0267
#3 injector short to ground or open circuit
P0268
#3 injector shorted to 12V
P0236
Knock sensor out of range
P0336
Crank position sensor - wrong RPM detected
P0337
No CPS signal, but CAPS signal detected
P0339
Crank signal fault not plausible with cam signal
P0344
Cam phase sensor signal missing
P0351
Ignition coil #1 open circuit or shorted to ground or to 12V
P0352
Ignition coil #2 open circuit or shorted to ground or to 12V
P0353
Ignition coil #3 open circuit or shorted to ground or to 12V
P0461
Fuel level sensor circuit out of range
P0462
Fuel level sensor shorted to ground
P0463
Fuel level sensor circuit shorted to 12V or open circuit
P0505
DLA output stage cutoff memory cuircut or output stage fault or open circuit or short to 12V
P0513
Incorrect DESS key
P0520
Oil pressure switch faulty
P0544
Exhaust gas temperature sensor fautly
P0545
Exhaust gas temperature switch shorted to ground
P0546
Exhaust gas temperature switch shorted to 12V or open circuit
P0562
Battery voltage too low
P0536
Battery voltage too high
P0600
CAN communication problem detected by EMS or MPEM
P0601
TPS learns unlikely or checksum fault
P0602
ECU not coded
P0604
RAM faulty
P0605
EEPROM faulty
P0605
Checksum fault EEPROM
P0608
Sensor 5V power supply short to ground
P0608
Sensor 5V power supply short to 12V
P0616
Starter relay short to ground or open circuit
P0617
Starter relay short to 12V
P1102
TPS adaption failure
P1104
TPS adaption cancelled
P1148
Fuel injector 1,2 or 3 - safety fuel cutoff disabled
P1200
Blow-by valve shorted to ground or open circuit
P1201
Blow-by valve shorted to 12V
P1202
Oil tank pressure switch implausible or blow-by valve still closed
P1517
Compass out of range
P1590
VTS position sensor out of range
P1591
VTS position sensor - low voltage
P1592
VTS position sensor - high voltage
P1593
VTS malfunction
P1607
MPEM fault
P1675
Spare output 1 shorted to ground or open circuit
P1676
Spare output 1 shorted to 12V
P1678
Spare output 2 shorted to ground or open circuit
P1679
Spare output 2 shorted to 12V
P1680
Comminication problem detected by MPEM
P1681
Communication problem - instrument cluster message missing
P1682
Communication problem - EMS message missing
P1683
COM RAM fault
P1690
VTS control up circuit open circuit or shorted to ground
P1691
VTS control up circuit shorted to battery
P1692
VTS control down circuit open circuit or shorted to ground
P1693
VTS control down circuit shorted to battery
P0344, P1200
Burnt TOPS 10A fuse
P1675
Burnt depth gauge or spare 2A fuse
P0353, P0267
Burnt cylinder #3 ignition coil and injection 10A fuse
P0352, P0264
Burnt cylinder #2 ignition coil and injection 10A fuse
P0351, P0261
Burnt cylinder #1 ignition coil and injection 10A fuse
P1680, P1681
Burnt information center 1A fuse
P0616
Burnt Bilge pump, beeper, diagnostic center 3A fuse
P1678
Burnt spare 5A fuse
P0231
Burnt starter, fuel pump 10A fuse
P0600
Burnt MPEM 2A fuse
P1690, P1692
Burnt VTS 7.5A fuse
Thursday, March 27, 2008
How much does one gallon of gasoline weigh?
Answer
The density of gasoline (petrol) is about 737.22 kg/m3
1 LITER of gasoline weighs 0.7372 kg or 1.6253 lbs
This means the Speedster 200 with it's 151 liter tank wieghts in at 243.79 lbs when topped up.
The density of gasoline (petrol) is about 737.22 kg/m3
1 LITER of gasoline weighs 0.7372 kg or 1.6253 lbs
This means the Speedster 200 with it's 151 liter tank wieghts in at 243.79 lbs when topped up.
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